Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam: Days 24, 25, 26

Day 24: Arrival Downpour, Banh Mi, Bars

Hostels give you great instructions on how to arrive from airports or by bus, most of the time. Ready to go I'm my mind by bus to Hideout Hostel, the guy sitting next to me on the plane happen to be going to the same area as me, but he could expense a car to his company. Offering for me to come with him and his colleague, sounds good to me!

My hostel sat only about a ten minute walk from Ben Thanh Market, where the car let us off. Two minutes into the walk the sky opened and started to downpour. I couldn't help but smile from ear to ear - I hadnt felt rain like this since living in Wisconsin and it felt so good! Despite this, I still sought shelter by to pull out my umbrella to protect my belongings from getting soaked. Arriving at the hostel, quick check in, I did a bit of laundry before walking around then meeting up with some others from my dorm for free beers at the hostel's bar next door.

A few drinking games later, the group grew from three of us: me, USA, and Malaysia, to 9: adding 3 India, 2 Sweden, and 1 Britain. We sought out a famous Banh Mi (aka Vietnamese Sandwich) shop that USA had read about, stopping by the street market along the way. Look up Banh Mi Huynh Hoa - go there and you won't regret it. Of all the Banh Mi sandwiches I've had since, non have lived up to this one. It was jammed packed full of meat and veggies and definitely gave you a kick of spice in your mouth, requiring another beer to tame it back down.

The rest of the night could have taken place in any part of the world: we all just had fun, took shots, danced, and drank some more.

After several attempts to cut out,  I finally succeed around maybe 1 or so??? On my walk home, two blocks before my hostel, I saw about 6 rats scurrying about. One of them on an empty Banh Mi cart.... I'm ready to leave the city.

Day 25: Pho Lee, City Walk, Cu Chi Tunnels

USA had another restaurant on his list to hit, so I joined him after breakfast to walk around the city, through some narrow and beautiful alleyways, to check out Pho Lee. Ordering Pho, of course, they brought us large bowls filled with "miscellaneous meat." Aka three cuts of beef, one of them being the throat. Noodles, spices, broth, green onions - so delicious that the condiments of lime wedges, bean sprouts, and peppers weren't necessary, but took it to another level. I love spicy, so I generously added more to my bowl. USA showed me the different sauces you dip your meat into as you take it from your bowl. So good and so filling. I'm glad we explored for a while afterwards to walk it off.

The Indian guys from last night had encouraged me to join them to see the tunnels used in the Vietnam War, so I signed up before leaving in the morning. Back at the hostel by 1pm for the tour, I discovered that they were on a different bus (which turned out to be a good thing for me - the tire fell off their bus while driving!!! They were stuck for almost 2 hours before another bus came and they could go to the tunnels).

A three hour bus ride later, we arrived first to a government funded workshop for victims of agent orange. Many of the workers had deformed or undeveloped kegs, but can use their hands to paint, design with eggshells, and cut pearl shells to create beautifully polished pieces of art. Of course they gave us the opportunity to buy, before loading back up towards the tunnels.

I honestly did not know what to expect, and it turned out to be worth the journey. Our guide explained and demonstrated how they entered the tunnels secretly, snuck away to the river, and how vast the tunnel system runs. There are still bodies missing in the tunnels that both the Vietnamese and US governments search for today. He showed us what they wore, their traps, how they ate, and more. He told us how a waitress at a local bar was one of the most dangerous: a general frequents the bar, she serves him day in and day out, maybe he falls in love with her or maybe he gets drunk and tells her information. When he is no longer useful, she gives him a basket full of fruits and vegetables from her family as a thank you for his patronage. He returns to base, bypassing security, since he is of high ranking. Bringing the produce to share with others, they grab pieces off the top, causing the basket to explode...

Different types of traps

At the end of the tour we could crawl through some of the tunnel - with exit ppints as close as 15m or as far as 100m. Dark and narrow, your shoulders easily scrape against the sides as you crawl through. I regret not going all they way to 100m. Apparently, at a certain point they no longer have it lit for you and it gets even more narrow - requiring you to get on your knees at times.

Bus ride home and feeling sick - perhaps from the bumpy road, or hungover, or malaria medication, I bought a bus ticket, grabbed a sandwich, and chatted with the newcomers to my dorm before bed.

Day 26: Banh Mi Hoa Ma, War Remanents Museum, Sleeper Bus

Following by example, I looked up good places to eat in Ho Chi Minh, finding this website. She wrote about the Banh Mi place we had tried days earlier, so I wanted to try out her breakfast suggestion: Banh Mi Hoa Ma. Arriving just after 6 in the morning, there was only one other person sitting to dine, but dozens of commuters on the motorbikes stopped for take away. I ordered the Banh Mi Op La, as the writer suggested and it was simply amazing. Best breakfast I've had while traveling thus far. Read her description, it's much better than what I could do. 48,000 Dong = $2.14

Another teat I snagged on the way to the museum - like a pancake with whatever flavor you want

Next, I walked over to the War Remanents Museum. To be honest, I don't feel like writing about it. It made me really sad and angry. You csn ask me about it in person if you want. It's definitely worth a visit if you are in Ho Chi Minh and it's cheap to enter. Go early in the morning (7:30am) before it gets hot.

As I was about to leave, a man with arms only reaching slightly past his shoulders, a scared face, and one eye, approached me. Asking me where I was from. I hate lying, and as much as I wanted to say anywhere else at this particular time in this particular location, I told him from the US. He tell out what was left of his arm for me to shake, introducing himself. His arm was soft and cold. He had stepped on an unexploded bomb from the war while working in a field.

Agent Orange graphic picture room

Prisoner Cages

Back at the hostel, I packed up to check out and waited in the lounge above the bar for time to pass before the bus. Buying snacks for the bus turned out to be more expensive than any meal.

An 8 hour bus ride sounds miserable, but in reclined seats with wifi, it could be worse. If you are any taller than me, you'd have a hard time getting comfortable. Also - the bus cost less than $10.

Overall impression of Ho Chi Minh: crazy traffic, not the cleanest sanitation - wise, nice people, great food, ton of backpackers. And hot. Super hot and sticky.