Xi'an, China: Days 11, 12, 13

Day 11: ATMs, Shin Splints, Hot Pot

Originally, I had big plans for today: head straight to the Terracotta Warriors from the train as I arrived in the morning. Finding pouring rain, I thought it'd be best to first drop my bag and check into the hostel.



I'm a huge fan of walking, so a 30 minute walk from the Xi'an train station seemed like no big deal, even if I'd get more than a bit wet. Minor aches in my lower legs envied themselves to be extremely painful shin splints on this walk. However, they didn't stop me from pushing through and discovering my hostel, Hang Tang Inn, in a slightly bigger and cleaner alleyway than the one in Beijing. I'd highly recommend this Inn to any traveler - from single rooms to dormitories, everything is clean and we'll maintained with a comfortable cheery atmosphere to go with it.

Displayed at the hostel: how to properly use squat toilet 

I checked in to discover my shortage of cash and need for an ATM. She allowed me to get settled into my room and pay by the afternoon. An ATM is just around the corner. Umbrella in hand and shin splints growing stronger, I set out into the rain. Long story short: it took me 3 hours to find an ATM that worked with my card. After searching and attempting at two different locations, I returned to the hostel to call my card company, thinking it may have been blocked. It wasn't blocked, just picky as to which machines it will be compatible with.

Back in my cozy hostel, a mental battle wrestled in my brain: seize the day or take care of what my body is clearing asking for - rest. The latter won. I ordered a slightly overpriced, but delicious, bacon cheeseburger and fries at the hostel, hung out with an American who is literally traveling all over the Eastern Hemisphere, and rested. If you've had shin splints before, you understand!

Dinner time rolled around, so USA and I wandered down the alleyway and found a clean, newer looking restaurant. The man working there had an app that he spoke into, then it translated it to English text. The restaurant turned out to be a Hot Pot place; he used his app to assist us in ordering. Boiling water, filled with spices and veggies, over a hot flame arrived quickly with plates of raw chicken pieces and beef to boil, followed shortly by bok choy, potatoes, noodles, and cabbage. A-maz-ing. Cook meats for three minutes and everything else to taste before dipping it into a spicy sauce with a hint of peanut flavor.

Rainy day ended on a high note :)

Day 12: Huashan Mountain, Cliffside Path, Spinach Noodles

Two Germans from my room and I joined together for a day hiking trip to Huashan Mountain. Taking a bus from the railway, per the front desk recommendation, we left in the early morning and arrived around 9:15 to the drop off point, 2 hours later. Needing nourishment for the all day hike, another American we met on the bus found an amazing treat, so we copied him. Shaped similar to an English Muffin, but warm and flaky, the bread was cut in half and filled with chopped up pork belly.

Inside the drop off point (a hotel I think), load up on water and snacks, if you haven't already. Also, buy the little gloves. They help to grip the cold chains that act as handrails throughout the mountain. We took the shuttle to the ticket office and purchased our fare. It's not a cheap day... 180RMB for entrance, 150RMB for round trip cable car, 40RMB for round trip bus to the cable car from the entrance.

You can opt to walk up the mountain, but it would take roughly the hours to do so each way. Two cable car options take you to either the North or West peaks; from there, you hike to the others. We opted for the North. Every path boasts clear signage in English and Chinese,  directing you towards East/South/West/Central Peaks.

 Once you get going, it's up up up you go. Little did I know that the proper way to prepare for this trip would be a stair master. At some points, you are practically on a stone ladder. The views over the mountain are breathtaking. They clear air distinguishes itself from the hazzy air you can spot over the town below. Temples at every peak attract the religious domestic tourism as well as anyone who wants to enjoy the beauty and nature. Of course, food and beverage for sale along the way wear high price tags - understandibly since getting all of that up there takes effort.

We passed East and Central Peaks, knowing that South Peak houses the thrill of the mountain: the Cliffside Path. Metal bars cemented into the mountainside act as a ladder and then hold wooden planks for the brave to walk on. Of course, you rent a harness for 30 RMB with double caribeaners, latching you onto a line that is bolted into the rock.

Climbing down the "ladder" and scootching across the plank, perhaps stopping for a photographer to snap a picture for you, you arrive at a landing with trees and a temlle, and of course a view.

Did I mention it's two way traffic? When you are ready, you have to back the waybyoubcame. If you are going the opposite direction, returning to safety, one of you has to lean out and let the other pass underneath. A group of 4 or so Chinese went under me - I had to tell them to slow down and go one at a time, because honestly, it was a bit scary!

About halfway back, a man's cellphone rang, and of course he answered it. Because China.

Back to safety, we retraced our steps to the cable car. Our timing had been perfect, had we arrived much later, we would have faced ques for the cable car, path, and return. Fortunately, we cruised through everything!

One of the Germans set off for the train, and the other and I returned to the bus back to Xi'an. Per recommendation, we wanted to try a little restaurant across the street. We stopped by the hostel to invite USA to come with us, to find another German had just checked in who was keen to join us too.

Noodles. Spinach noodles. I've been dreaming about these noodles ever since. Just across the street from Hang Tang Inn, we have two restaurants. Go to the quiet one on the left. They have a very small menu of spinach noodles. We all ordered the same one: large with beef, peppers, and potatoes. And of course 4 large beers. This was the cheapest most fulfilling meal I've had. Only 10RMB for the food and 5 RMB for the beer each. That's US $2.37 for those keeping tabs at home.

Day 13: Terracotta Warriors, Muslim Quarter

Today, the two Germans and I (...there's a theme going on here...) made our way to the Terracotta Warriors. Taking clearly marked public bus, getting there and back is extremely easy. No real need to take a tour unless you're super interested in having someone explain everything to you. Personally, the all day tour for this sort of thing would be too much. We walked around for a couple of hours, which sufficed to see everything. You can also eavesdrop on other tours or personal tour guides (who will offer their services as you enter) to catch fun facts.

Again, I won't go into history, but funny story we overheard: awhile ago, a German who loved the Terracotta Warriors dressed himself up to look like part of the carvings. He hopped over the fence and posed in line for a good while, scaring tourists as his eyes moved. Otherwise he remained perfectly still, not harming anything. Security of course escorted him from the property. Come to find, he meant know harm; he just loved them so much he wanted to be one for a day.

Finding our way back to Xi'an, I had plenty of time before my train ride to my next city to walk around. The three of us wandered through the Muslim Quarter. Streets filled with Muslim Chinese people, selling hot, delicious lamb on legs and other tasty smelling treats greeted us. We mostly walked and took pictures, have a few bites here and there.

One of the sights that stood out to me: a man smoking a cigarette, shaving a carcass on the side of the street, with construction workers behind him pouring cement into a mess of a buidling. Sanitation laws don't exist here. But you know what? I bet it's still tasty. Someone else can try.

After hanging out together the time arrived for me to say goodbye. Off to another overnight train... this one lasting 16 hours. Good rest for my shin splints!