Day 39: Arrival, Monk Ceremony
I arrived to the airport mid afternoon and caught a taxi to my friend's hotel. Finally a familiar face! Much needed! He is also traveling for a long time, longer than me, and it made sense to meet up for the festival, a long ways away from SF.
I dropped my bag at the hotel and we set out on food to explore the town. A large, square wall surrounds the old town of Chiang Mai. The square is surrounded by a canal with one way roads wrapping around it, and traffic is nuts. SF was so funny, darting across the intersection. Maybe I was in Vietnam too long, but I just casually wall across, as you would in Vietnam, expecting them to slow and swerve for me. Both of us are still here, so I guess either method works!
Immediately eating the first street food we found, spring rolls, I already knew I liked Thailand. Walking around we stopped at various temples and old sites, stumbling on an area where Monks hung lanterns and people with professional cameras an add tripods set up. Obviously, something was about to happen here, apparently at 6pm. Not wanting to stand for such a long time, we walked some more, then returned to see what would happen.
Colorful lanterns lit up the trees as the sky darkened. A small, golden Buddha sat beneath the center tree. Over the next hour, young monks in training arranged candles in the water that surrounds the area as well as all over the ground. Finally, candles lit, they all disappeared, ready to begin. Two young men carrying a gong lead a slow procession of monks across the bamboo platform next to the water. They walked around, carrying candles, slowly towards the trees. Surrounding Buddha, they placed their candles in front of them and positioned themselves before beginning to chat and bow to Buddha, three times. They then turned around, seated, as words continued in Thai. At this point, we'd been a standing there for an hour and a half, and decided to leave.
Day 40: Elephant Jungle Sanctuary, Loy Krathong Opening Ceremony, Night Bazaar, Fish Spa, Ladyboy Cabaret Show
Early the next morning, a truck picked up me and SF for a day with the Elephants!! A bumpy 90 minute drive in the back of a truck brought us to perhaps my favorite experience of my life. A bamboo stand overlooking elephants below revealed our new friends to us, as the baby elephant loudly sounded his trunk They instructed us to remove our shoes, and only wear what we wanted to get wet, and handed us a cover to wear.
Walking down the hill, each of us got a bundle of bananas. We were told to loudly say 'BON!' To get the elephants to raise their trucks to put the food into their mouths. Otherwise you can simply hand it to their trunk, as they sniff all over your body to find more food. If you know me at all, you know I love elephants, and this experience brought tears of joy to my eyes. To see the six elephants so happy and well taken care of is a step in the right direction, when so many places mistreat them. In case you don't already know - you should never ride an elephant. There's as great documentary on Netflix if you're interested in why.
After the bananas were finished, they brought out stalks of corn, which the elephants smartly tore apart by wrapping their trunk around one end and stepping on the other. (Can't lie, I was afraid of getting my toes squished!) Next, we went over to a mud pit, where one of the older elephants immediately pooped and peed. We were to assist in giving them a mud bath....okay so this part was gross because there was no denying that this was basically throwing around poop, and getting it splattered on you. Fortunately, immediately after we went down to the waterfall, giving the animals time to take a long drink before jumping into clean ourselves and them. They gave us bowls and brushes to throw water onto them and scrub them down with the brush. They splashed each other and splashed us! They rolled onto to their sides and piled onto each other. I was a mere 5 ft away when one sat and put her front feet on top of two others who were laying in the pile. Flailing her trunk spraying water. Like I said, best day ever.
Walking back to wash with soap and have lunch, the elephant keeper explained how they sleep with the elephants to make sure no one takes them. Also, the reason there can't run wild is that 1. They'd get killed and 2. They'd eat everyone's crops.
A fresh buffet of vegetarian pad thai, watermelon, and pineapple completed the day before journeying back to town.
After showering and naps, we headed to catch the opening Ceremony for the Loy Krathong Festival. We sat in front of a stage, where shortly after, performers came out, doing at sort of dance with their hands, holding lanterns, and occasionally dipping. Long speeches and awards followed, as well as a decorated woman, perhaps a Miss Chiang Mai type figure was carried to the stage. At the end, fireworks shot into the air.
A girl that SF had met the day before joined us to check out the night bazaar. We walked around, spotting ladyboys, eating ice cream, and taking in the scene. She recommended the ladyboy show, so we decided to check it out, while she headed to the bars. With some time to kill, SF and I sat to at the Fish Spa, for 15 minutes of misery on my part. The little piranhas ate away at the dead skin on our feet, the most ticklish, bizarre feeling ever. If he wasn't there, I would have taken my feet out after the first minute.
Although they did feel mighty soft afterwards...
On to the ladyboy show - 250 Baht gets you admission and 1 drink. We sat up by the stage, right in the action. The rest was basically a cabaret show with some humor added in. One of the highlights: a ladyboy straddled a guy next to us, and I think he forgot she was a he because he started stroking her leg. We burst out laughing - it couldn't have been better.
We went to check out the bar scene, but both decided we were in the party mood, and left.
Day 41: Chiang Mai Grand Canyon, Loy Krathong Festival, Yi Peng Festival
After searching 5 different shops to find a scooter for rent, we finally rented two and met up with a couple of Dutch girls that SF had met before I'd arrived. (First we had lunch while waiting for them - Sticky Rice Cafe - pretty dang excellent actually - especially the dessert that SF ordered). We set out in the traffic for Chiang Mai Grand Canyon - about a 25 minute drive.
I'm not sure if it's man made or natural, but the canyon is huge and filled with water. You have to pay maybe 40 Baht to get in, while includes an iced tea drink. The lower jump is maybe 8 meters, while the higher cliff rises 15 meters above the water. I figured I'd go for the big one first, facing it sooner rather than later. Running and jumping off the cliff, it is a long way to fall. Too much time to take multiple breaths (or screams...) before pounding into the water. The pressure is so great that it pushed my legs apart, straining my groin muscles slightly. Round 2 was the same. I'm glad I didn't hear the horror stories of people dying when they jumped before I went, because I may not have done it. To be fair, those were people trying to do a flip or something, and basically belly flopped onto the water. We swam around, lounging on bamboo raft watching others jump, where I met a girl who recommend a hostel for Pai (I'm so glad I met her and followed her recommendation!!).
The others stayed in the water a bit longer, while in was ready to be out of the sun. I went up to get my free drink and ended up falling asleep in my chair. SF woke me up when they finished and we ordered lunch together. Then back to get ready for the festival (at a new hotel).
Parking on the less populated part of the river, we made our way to the bank where people sold lanterns for the sky and floating, flowered candles for the river. The big release was to be at 9pm, even though people were already sending them into the sky. I went ahead and bought a candle for the river and released it, adding ad strand of hair for luck.
We wandered across the bridge, to the night market, getting some street eats before grabbing beers to sit and chill by the river. Kids set off small and legitimate fireworks over the water. We almost got burned by one they set off right next to us! SF went to go find the Dutch girls and brought them back over to me while I finished my beer and people watched. Finally, 9pm hit and we lit up our lanterns, sending them into the already full, streaming sky. When you release it, you try to watch it until it disappears into the sky. If it disappears before the light goes out, you are rid of bad luck and your wish will come true. All of ours succeeded. Fireworks continued. More lanterns filled the sky than stars.
Day 42: Movie Theater, Goodbye Chiang Mai
Happy Thanksgiving! We returned the motorbikes and caught a red truck taxi to the bus station. The first available bus was not until 3:30, so we had some time you kill. We went to subway, to eat are and use the Internet. Well, at least I got turkey on Thanksgiving! A movie theater sat only a 15 minute walk away. We both wanted to see Spectre, but unfortunately the next showing was in Thai without subtitles. Instead, we saw the Hunger Games in 4-D .... meaning the chairs move, 3-D glasses, water sprays, and air hits your neck and ankles. Fitting for the fancy mall an theater that housed it.
Off to Pai! Goodbye Chiang Mai!
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