Day 89: Road Trip on the Left Side of the Road, Coromandel Peninsula
Around midday, I picked up my Jucy car rental - praying that they wouldn't give me a manual transmission. Luckily, they gave me this green beauty that I call "Little Booger" in my head, and it's an automatic. I hit the road, on the left side, which wasn't as difficult as I'd imagined. I suppose driving the scooters around the islands helped prepare for this moment.
Per recommendation from several people, I navigated north, to the Coromandel Peninsula. From there I had a few spots in mind, but didn't plan any accommodation. For once I just wanted to figure it out as a go. The drive up the west side of the peninsula proved to be beautiful. It was a cloudy, misting day, otherwise I could have caught a stellar sunset. Instead, I drove along, admiring the cliffs while attempting to not drive off of them. Let me tell you - it wouldn't be difficult to accidentally do just that.
I passed through the quiet town of Thames, simple stopping to buy staple food items for thus road trip: i.e. peanut butter and bread. After that, I made random stops at beaches that caught my eye, not having much of a goal for the day by this point. The town of Coromandel, while cute, is also very quiet, so I moved on quickly after a short walk around. Another stop at Waitete Beach, a Trip Advisor recommendation, proved to be beautiful and also the deciding point that I'd further my drive to the east side today.
Cutting across the peninsula, I accidentally took a recommended scenic road: the 309. It winds through the trees and mountains and feels as if you're in the middle of nowhere. Winding like a snake through the valleys, you can't drive too fast, and instead just enjoy the ride. At one point, pigs wander onto the road; I wanted to take a picture, but cars threatened in both directions. Further along, I stopped to view Waiau Falls. The rained turned the pathway down to the falls into a muddy injury trap, so I played it safe and looked from the road, seeing as I'm by myself in the middle of the forest.
My last stop on the 309: Egans Park, a campground along a beautiful, crystal clear river, with trails that I'm sure would be well worth it on a sunnier day.
Finally, I arrived in Whitianga, where I decided to park for the night. Great thai food at the only thai place in town, which also serves amazing carrot cake (?) before attempting to find somewhere to spend the night in the little booger. There are steep fines for "freedom camping," in the wrong place here, so I drove around quite a bit to feel safe enough to sleep.
Day 90: Cathedral Cove, Hahei Beach, Hot Water Beach, Cook Beach
As you can imagine sleeping in a cramped car with a fear of someone knocking on your window with a big fat ticket, I woke up insanely early. Light was just beginning to touch the sky, so I drove over to the beach for a little morning stroll. A short while later, I returned to my car to see a man ticketing a SUV with two girls who had clearly just been waken sitting inside. my fears are justified and I was lucky!!
Cathedral Cove is a hot destination in Hahei, just over an hour drive away, so I pointed that direction. Another problem with sleeping in the car is that you can't charge your phone. Not wanting to visit this iconic cove without the ability to take pictures, I had to wait at a cafe in Hahei to open at 7:30am so I could sit and charge my phone over breakfast.
Anyways, I parked my car at the top of the hill at the car park (which had a couple spots left - early bird gets the worm!), where the trailhead to Cathedral Cove begins.
Roughly 45 minutes later, you see this....
More and more families and couples steadily arrived as the morning grew later. I took a catnap in the sand un between watching a group of guys jump off of a rock into the water a few meters off shore. Scuba divers passed by in their boat, on their way to what I've head is a worthwhile divesite (budget stopped me from signing up today!).
You can through to the other side of the cove if you time it right with the waves and don't mind getting a bit wet....
Along the pathway on the way back, I followed the side treks to Stingray Bay and Gemstone Bay. Next time, I want to travel with my snorkel! These bays didn't have beaches, but several snorkelers jumped off the rocks to explore the waters.
Back towards the car park, you can opt another trail down to Hahei Beach. I followed it down, enjoying the view, then hit the hot sand. After a bit, I started talking to two Kiwis who convinced me that the water isn't as cold if you jump all of the way in...... I just came from tropical waters, so I had a hard time buying into it. After a couple of hours with them on the beach, I no longer had to stay in my car that night. New Zealand - you honestly have the most hospitable citizens I've ever encountered.
The Kiwis head to Cathedral Cove while I explored another bay with Cooks Beach, admiring as a red tractor launched a boat into the water before taking my second nap of the day.
Just South of Hahei you can find Hot Water Beach. Bring your shovel and dig near the sign (or large crowd) to find hot spring water under the sand. It's best to go when the tide is low. If you don't have a shovel, walk along the waters edge and you'll feel the piping hot water hit your toes as it runs down the slope, joining the ocean.
A delicious cream later trying the New Zealand special, Hoky Poky, the Kiwis and I reunited and I followed them to their family summer home for some fish N chips and card games.
It's crazy how excited I was to sleep in a bed that night!
Day 91: Karangahake Gorge + Waihi
Today, I slept in (which for me means 8am), taking full advantage of having a bed and shower. I set out towards Waihi, where nearby are some nice hikes and gorges.
I found the car park, ate a peanut butter sandwich, and set out in Karangahake Gorge. Previously, a railway ran along this pathway, now a biking and walking trail, leading from Waihi to Victoria Battery, a historic gold processing site.
Over bridges and through one dark tunnel, I passed three hours exploring this trail.
Sidetracked once by a short trek to a waterfall.
After, I went to check out Waihi Beach. I arrived to fund it windy, so decided to instead return to Waihi to explore the town.
A replica of the Cornish Pumphouse sits on top of the hill and the edge of a huge man made crater where gold mining used to prevail.
The small town closed down early. I grabbed dinner at a corner bar to charge my phone, found Internet for awhile, took a short drive to see the non-impressive 'giant' L+P Bottle, and waited for dark to set in so that I could find a safe place to park and sleep for the night.
Day 92: Waitawheta Tramway + Hike to Kauri Tree, Tauranga
Another early rise, after a restless night of paranoia, I somehow found the trailhead to Waitawheta Tramway, a historical walk and hike area. To get to the actual start of the trail, you park along the road and cross over private property where sheep roam along the field and river. This is actually common in New Zealand. The sheep either stare at you motionless or scurry away in a herd. If one runs, they all run.
The Gorge used to be full of massive Kauri trees that proved to be am excellent export product for New Zealand, as well as ideal for building houses.
They built the tramway to haul the giants from the forest using this....
You could trek all day in the Gorge - however it can become quite dangerous, especially if it's raining, as the river swells. Seeing as I'm hiking alone, I opted against exploring where signs cautioned rough trek, in spite of my adventurous urges to go for it.
I did, however want to see the famous Kauri tree. To do this, you must wade across the river. A smart Kiwi probably brings boots with them. An unprepared Jenn Shedd simply takes off her shoes, hikes up her pants, and carefully enters onto the slippery rocks in her barefeet. The chilling water rushing against my ankles combined with the algae covered stones required me to use my hands to keep balance in the water, unless I wanted to risk falling.
Wanting to keep as warm and dry as possible, I took caution all three times I crossed the river. If I damaged my phone at this stage of the trip I'll be so frustrated with myself!
Finding the trail at the other side of the first crossing was more difficult than I initially thought. Orange triangles clearly mark the trail, once you find it. However, I misread one, thinking I was supposed to climb up into the trees, when actually you are to follow the river a bit, cross another stream, before an easier path is revealed. I spent maybe 15 minutes climbing up a wrong slope through thick brush and crossing branches before deciding to turn around, retrace my steps, and reevaluate. Good choice.
Finally, a boarded walkway lead up to the enormous tree. The walkway protects it's delicate system of roots from trampers. By looking at it, it's a wonder that anything could take this beast down. It's bark constantly sheds, preventing vines or moss from growing or attaching to it, leaving a bare, branchless trunk shooting into the sky.
It's really quite sad that you have to hike for nearly 2 hours to have a look at just one of these impressive beauties where previously an entire forest stood. They are fortunately now a protected species.
Back across the river again and on the return route to the little booger waiting for me on the other side of the sheep farm. Not a bad start to the day! Four hours of trekking and it's not even 11am.
My dad said he'd never been to the 'Bay of Plenty,' so I figured I'd head down there with the second half of my day..... continued in the next post.
Wow! I really like the sheep!
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