Koh Phangan, Thailand: Days 52 - 66

December 6, 2015 - December 21, 2015

Koh Phangan. Oh, Koh Phangan....

I spent two magical weeks on this island, sometimes referred to as "Purgatory," other times as "Boomerang Island." This post will be slightly different, where to begin...

Bangkok, Thailand: Days 49, 50, 51

Day 49: Arrival to Oldtown Hostel and Credit Card Fraud

I arrived this evening, walking from the train station, to a hostel recommended to me by a guy I met in Ho Chi Minh, who was also going to be staying there! This hostel is awesome - wide open, clean common area and rooms and bathrooms, you can't ask for much more.

Ayutthaya, Thailand: Days 48 & 49

Day 48: Arrival and Night Market

After a long day on the train, I finally got to the station in Ayutthaya where a man persistently offered me a ride in his Tuk Tuk as soon as I stepped onto the platform. After repeatedly telling him 'no thank you,' I eventually caved and accepted his ride for 100 Baht to 1301 Hostel.

Chiang Mai, Thailand Part 2: Days 45, 46, 47

Day 45: Arrival and Thai Massage

London and I arrived at the hostel, Julie's Guesthouse Part 2, to find Scotland and Italy lounging out front. We freshened up after the dusty drive. Scotland, London, and I decided to get massages. They both had experienced a Thai massage before, so decided to go with oil massages. I went ahead and tried the Thai one. It's a really intense massage - in fact it hurts! She pushes and twists your legs, arms, and entire body, putting her full weight on you, cracking your joints and your back. It's amazing how she twists your leg around hers to get a particular stretch. As painful as it was, my groin, still hurting from jumping 15 meters in Chiang Mai Canyon days ago, feels a lot better now! I didn't tell her about my broken foot, so that was a bit sore afterwards. It was also a bit awkward in that they put all three of us in the same room. I had cloths on that they gave me, but the others had to strip down a bit, due to the oil.

Relaxing evening uploading pictures before bed.

Day 46: Doi Suthep, Iced Coffee

The girls had an elephant tour booked for the day, so London and I had a lazy morning and dropped of laundry.

I wanted to see Doi Suthep, and he decided to come with me. We rented a motobike, a semi automatic, so he had to drive all day. Around the Square, a few kilometers away, and up the mountain we went. We stopped to potentially see a watersll, but they charge 100 Baht per person, so we decided it wasn't worth it. (It's crazy how $3 is somehow expensive here.... your perspective on cost changes with each country and how much you should pay here instead of how much it would be back home)

Stopping once more and and viewpoint on the way up, we made it up to the temple. Shoulders covered and 30 Baht later, we were in. The view of Chiang Mai is beautiful from way up here. Continuing further up the road, after the temple, leads you to and little village, selling souvenirs. We walked around,  past a little garden in the back, shared some sweet strawberries, and ventured back down.

I wish I took note of the name, but past the temple on the right hand side, going down the mountain, sits a coffee place with a great view. Two mocha iced coffees later, we sat there until she closed shop and told us we had to leave.

Back at the hostel, we didn't see the girls, so we wandered down to find dinner. Spices and Herbs turned out to be the right choice. He ordered Tom Yum and I ate the Red Curry. Delicious. And they fruit juices are actually mostly fruit and not so much ice, making them the best I think I've had so far here.

Rejoining the girls, we had some drinks, played pool and jenga at a sports bar across from our hostel. They we hit up 7-11 for cheaper drinks, sat and hung out one last time together until finally, at 2am I said goonight and goodbye. I had signed up for a tour that left early in the morning, and they would be on their way to Bangkok by the time I returned that evening. This was but far the most difficult goodbye yet. Especially with London, since I had spent the most time with him. I'm sure I'll see them all again :)

Day 47: The White Temple, The Black House, Long Neck Village, Thawlsen Chiang Rai Hot Springs 

Waking early for a 7:15am pick up, I got to see the girls one last night out front by good fortune. One more quick hug goodbye, I got on the bus for my day tour to Chiang Rai.

And most of the day passed on that bus.

It took 1 hour to pick everyone up before we could begin the 2 hour drive to the first stop. At least 30 minutes to 1 hour stretched on the bus in between each stop. And traffic on the return was awful, taking over an hour to drop everyone. That all aside, it was an interesting day.

Stop #1: White Temple. Our bus was full of Chinese people, so our guide spoke Chinese, but not great English. The only non Chinese people were myself and a girl from Brazil who spoke okay English. That being said, all I know about the White Temple is that one man built it, and it's still working on it. It is free to enter,  but once you step onto the path, you must continue to walk, otherwise it's bad luck. The outside is completely shining anf white. Arms reach from the ground and heads collage onto walls. No pictures allowed on the inside, but the man was still painting his desings. A weird mixture of scenes fill them mural - from Buddhist symbols to a scene of a city terrorized by a two headed snake, with Minions, Superman, and Spiderman on the scene. Only other thing I can really say is that the bathrooms are painted gold.

We had lunch across the street before continuing.

Stop #2: I literally have nothing to a say about the Black House, as our guide couldn't tell us anything in English. So here are pictures. Very masculine, lots of alligator skins, anaconda skin, and various mammal skins and skulls. Also, a horse outside got a made erections when I pet him on the head; everyone stopped to photograph. So weird.

Stop #3: Long Neck Village was also a bit strange. The women start putting rings around their neck at age 4 or 5, and once you start the process, you can't stop. A ring is added roughly once per year. It started out as protection from Tiger bites when they lived in Burma, but now it is simple part of their culture and about beauty. They also wear rings around their legs, under the knees. As we went around, taking pictures, it felt as though we were taking pictures of animals in a zoo. I didn't like the feeling. The girls and women older than 13 or so didn't look happy. They wove scarves and had items you could buy, but it seems so strange. The oldest women don't even look and you. I guess they are used to it by now.

Stop #4: Thawlsen Chiang Rai Hot Springs was much different than the hot springs in Pai. These springs are boiling hot to the point that they have little wells to boil eggs. The parts designated for your feet were almost to hot to bear. I had to dip them in and out, otherwise it felt as if they'd burn!

Back at the hostel at 8pm (I was told I'd get back at 6:30... not sure I'd recommend this tour to be honest), I beelined for Spices & Herbs for some chicken pad thai - quite possibly the best I've ever had. Laundry finished, I packed my bag to leave in the morning.

Day 48: Train to Ayutthaya 

I woke early, got ready, finished packing, and headed to the laundry place to see if they had my missing elephant tank top (they didn't :( ). I hopped into a red taxi truck, who dropped his daughter off at school before taking me to the train station.

After buying my ticket, I went to a school coffee shop to use the Internet unsuccessfully. One thing I miss about Vietnam is the readily available WiFi everywhere go: airport, train station, bus station, on the bus, on the boat, at the street market! Here, no WiFi, and the coffee shop WiFi didn't work.

On the train, as I am typing this, it is much more comfortable than the one in Vietnam. Airconditioning and even snack and meal service included. Lunch was spicy mackerel, so even though I tried several bites, I couldnt get past the skin and bones, so I simply ate the rice and cookies. The views are beautiful, looking out over the countryside and passing villages. Not a bad way to have cheap, relaxing travel. Chiang Mai to Ayutthaya runs about 17 USD on the express train, and takes about 9 hours. That's less time then I spent on the bus yesterday!

(One hour away from Ayutthaya! Just wanted to add that the bathroom on this train is leaps and bounds better than the bathroom on the trains in China! For starters...it's not a squat toilet. Winning.)

Pai, Thailand: Days 42, 43 ,44, 45

Day 42: Thanksgiving Arrival, The Famous Circus School Hostel

The bus from Chiang Mai rolled into Pai around 6:30pm. Even though the driver drove super fast around corners, speeding past other buses, it still took roughly three hours to make the trip. Chomping on my Subway sandwhich, I figured that would sufficiently count as my turkey for Thanksgiving. My hostel offered a pick up service, so I climbed into the back of the truck, ready to see what this odd hostel had in store.

Chiang Mai, Thailand Part 1: Days 39, 40, 41, 42

Day 39: Arrival, Monk Ceremony

I arrived to the airport mid afternoon and caught a taxi to my friend's hotel. Finally a familiar face! Much needed! He is also traveling for a long time, longer than me, and it made sense to meet up for the festival, a long ways away from SF.

Hanoi, Vietnam: Day 35

Day 35: Sick and Homesick

I'm going to be very honest, I didn't feel very well when I got to Hanoi. Whatever caused me to not feel well in Phong Nha (I think it was something I ate at the bus stop), didn't go away. I think sickness and home sickness go hand in hand because I really wanted to be home with my family and a hot fire. Instead, I caught up on blogging for several hours at my hostel and booked a cruise for the following morning. I took a break to grab a sandwich and walk to see the lake.

Phong Nha, Vietnam: Days 33 & 34

I am going to be honest, it is getting harder and harder to keep blogging, especially when I'm having such a great time! So I apologize for the continued spelling errors and perhaps less detail, as I am writing this post over 10 days after leaving Phong Nha.

Day 33: Dragonboat Phong Nha and Dong Tien Son Caves

Hoi An, Vietnam: Days 29, 30, 31

Day 29: Arrival, Under The Coconut Tree Home Stay, Beach, Soul Kitchen

Hoi An may be the easiest to write about because I did a whole lot of nothing...

Early morning flight from Da Lat to Da Nang, shared a taxi from Da Nang to Hoi An, and checked into the laid back Under The Coconut Tree Home Stay.

I immediately dropped my bags and hit the beach. Minutes later, I joined a volleyball game. After that, lounged in my favorite hammock of the trip, drank pineapple juice while meeting new friends from UK, returned to play on the beach.

Da Lat, Vietnam: Days 27, 28

Day 26: Arrival

I arrived to Da Lat via sleeper bus around 9 in the evening. Mr. Peace Backpackers emailed saying to take a free shuttle conviently to their location, which worked out perfectly. Problem arose when I arrived to the hostel: they overbooked. Apologetic and accommodating, Mr. Peace and his wife Strawberry offered to put me up on a mattress in the lounge, free of charge that night. I think at the beginning of this journey, I would have gotten upset; however, this didn't phase me at all and a free night is always a good thing, so no problem at all.

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam: Days 24, 25, 26

Day 24: Arrival Downpour, Banh Mi, Bars

Guilin, China: Days 21, 22, 23

Day 21: Arrival, Long Walk, Dinner

At the airport, they directed me to a bus for 'City Center.' Only 33RMB, that sounded like a good deal to me. However, the last stop of the bus definitely was not in the center of Guilin, at least not the tourist part. Rookie mistake - not checking where it would let off. Not knowing where I was, I pulled out my phone. Google maps seems to give you fairly accurate placement, even without an Internet connection. Fortunately for me, an Irish couple sat in the same boat, but they actually had a map of Guilin. We figured out which way to walk and set out.

About an hour later, I finally arrived to my hostel. The hostel sits in what I would consider 'City Center,' which looks much more maintained than the first 45 minutes of my walk.

A girl from Holland, that I'd briefly met in Beijing, and I had plans to meet for dinner, since we knew we were crossing here. I quickly checked in, changed my sweat covered t shirt, and rushed to meet her.

A popular pedestrian only area with shops and restaurants surrounds a little night market with skewers and griddles of hot food. Tables and chairs scattered about the alleyway held dozens of people eating delicious smelling, family style dishes. We took a loop before choosing a place. Our chicken, beef, and vegetable dishes arrived shortly after, perfectly filling after a long day of travel.

Walking around a bit more, sweet tooth aching, we stopped in a pastry shop. I bought a powdery sweet bread filled with cream and berries. Not nearly as sweet as I expected, it still hit the spot.

Day 22: Li River Cruise, Yangshuo, Yukon River Bamboo Rafting

Gary the tour guide picked me up from my hostel early in the morning to begin the second and final tour that I'd pre booked before leaving the States: Li River Cruise. I climbed into the van, discovering that I was the last stop for pick up and the only single traveler. Gary instantly won our hearts - I'd highly recommend him for an tour or as a personal tour guide. He made small jokes and radiates happiness along with his knowledge of Guilin's history. (His email is 446976648@qq.com if you are ever in Guilin looking for a guide, contact him!!)

After about a 40 minute drive, learning facts about the hursts long the way, we arrived to the boat. A Chinese group joined us, so Gary gave them a brief introduction before boarding the ship with other tour groups.

Pictures don't do the scenery justice. The hursts have such a unique shape, strangeness that sets them apart from other mountains. Dr. Seuss must have drawn inspiration from here.

During the the hour cruise I had the pleasure to get to know an adventurous couple from Canada who lives in Scotland. In fact the entire group from the van consisted of people from very different parts of the world who were all simply kind hearted. Gary, too. He actually demonstrated Thai Chi on the roof of the boat after lunch. I'd always seen a slow, relaxing version of the martial art. He demonstrated and explained that it starts slow, but builds and becomes powerful.

Scene from the back of the 20RMB pictured above
(I cut off the left part in all of my pictures :( )

Docking in Yangshuo, Gary gave us 45 minutes to browse West Street - vendor after vendor selling you any possible souvenir you can imagine. The couple from Canada/Scotland and I decided to forego the shopping for some beautiful scenery along the river. We took off our shoes and walked out onto a slippery rock on the side, photo op!

Rejoining the group at our meeting time, Gary performed Thai Chi for everyone, this time in the hot sun, before loading up and heading to part two of our day. For an additional 150RMB you can take a bamboo raft ride on the Yulong River. Fun fact - parts of Star Wars 3 - about 43 minutes worth - filmed here. Being the only solo traveler, the guide offered to come with me. I told him it was his choice, that I'm fine either way, to discover that he'd never done it before! Of course I encouraged him to join me.

Beware: your shoes do get wet on this raft, from the first moment you step onto it. A man stood on the back with a long bamboo pole, pushing us forward. Under a true, old stone bridge, Gary told me it's the largest one on the river and no cement is used, only the pressure of the rocks fitted against each other. Only pedestrians and cattle may cross, no vehicles. More beautiful views of the hursts surrounded us. Then on the left, an assortment of props for wedding photos scattered on the long grass: fake windmill, arch, giant word 'LOVE,' fake hot air balloon... you get the picture. About a half dozen brides in varied colored dresses posed around the scene.

To regulate water flow, there are a few changes in height, dropping one foot a couple times as we went downstream. Gotta lift your feet to help keep them from getting soaked, but your face will get splashed regardless. On the way back up, a motorized incline with a belt carries the raft forward for an even bigger splash as it releases you back into the river. After taking selfies with Gary and taking turns standing at the end of the raft for photo ops, we came ashore near to where we started and the stone bridge. Man is the view from that bridge priceless.

Two hour ride back in horrible traffic, I arrived to the hostel to find the Internet not working. Tired, went to bed for an early morning.

Day 23: Seven Star Park and Cave, Elephant Trunk Hill, Chunji Goose Dinner

Debating whether I wanted to have a long day or short day the previous night, I woke up confirming that short day wins. That means I go to Seven Star Park and see the Seven Star Cave, a 30 minute walk from my hostel, instead of an hour or more bus ride to the Reed Flute Cave. No regrets.

Walking over, I also thought about how much cash I had left. Being my last day in China, I didn't want to take any more RMB out of the ATM, so budgeting enough to get me to the airport early tomorrow factored into the day as well.

Walking across the bridge and crossing the crazy traffic, the park is only two blocks on the other side. I imagined it to be this peaceful scene, and for the first 40 minutes of taking a side trail, I was right. Stairs lead up to temples where early morning locals practiced Thai Chi, at least 50 people. I explored a bit more before directing myself towards the cave. Then I crossed the bulk of the park, which is targeted at families with Children. Play structures, games, merri-go-round, minions, the whole bit! There's even a zoo, which I didn't venture towards (separate entrance fee).

I reached the cave with about 10 minutes to wait until the next tour. You must go with a guide, as she controls the lights throughout the cave. 100% in Chinese and the only non Chinese person on the tour, two students started talking to me before we entered. They had a bet as to if I was from the US or England. They offered me a couple of mandarin oranges and ended up translating parts of the tour for me, starting with the big red characters in the entrance of the cave reading: China is Communist.

Colored lights lit up the stalagmites. All of it quite beautiful. My impression of the tour was that she mostly spoke about how some of the stalagmite formations looked like different animals or scenes from old Chinese folktales. Some were labeled in English, others my student friends helped to explain. Photo ops at key points cost an extra 5 RMB each. They shut the lights off as soon as they walked away so you can steal a photo. Halfway, in an open area, vendors waited selling souvenirs.

At the end of the tour, I made a beeline for Elephant Trunk Hill, stopping for a couple of meat dumplings, costing a mere 1RMB each, on the way. I decided I didnt feel like climbing the hill or pay for entrance, I simply wanted to take a picture.

Turned out to be more challenging than I thought. They purposefully planted a line of thick trees to block your view of the hill from the sidewalk. Of all things in China, this pissed me off. Just to get a view of the Hill from the opposite bank, you would have to pay over 200RMB. Not happening.

I circled, trying to find a gap in the trees. I wall towards the bridge leading across to the park where you'd have to pay to hike the hill, still not the right angle to see the hill properly.

Returning to the treeline, frustrated, I decided to climb the trees. Yes - trees. First one, then the other. Waste of time - I still couldn't see anything  (but I did get a lot of strange looks and people pointing at me).

View when I climbed the tree

Not giving up, I eyed the hotel across the street. Marching straight past the lobby and to the elevator, I pushed the button for the top floor "garden bar." Success! Gorgeous view, perfect angle. I snapped my photos and called it a day before the staff could question me. Although they didn't seemed to be bothered by my being there, so maybe this happens all the time.

View from Golden Oriole Hotel

Back at the hostel, I decided it was a good afternoon to drink tea and catch up blogging. Sometimes sitting alone that long attracts other solo travelers. A guy from somewhere nearby in Chine, recently returning to the country from his travels, sat with me. We eventually decided to go grab dinner - he knew a great place. Wary of Scams from Beijing, I immediately asserted the amount I was looking to spend, emphasizing that I didn't have many RMB left.

I had no need to worry - his restaurant choice was on point. Chunji, about 20 minute walk from our hostel, sat on a corner with a line of people waiting for a table. He took a number and we sat to wait when suddenly a series of firecrackers went off outside, setting off the alarms of at least 10 to 15 motorbikes. Apparently it was some girl's birthday.

A short while later, a hostess lead us upstairs to a larger than expected room of communal tables with lazy susans in the center. I was the only non-Chinese person there. After ordering, the server places a sand timer in front of you, counting down 28 minutes. If your food doesn't all arrive before then, your meal is free. As is normal in China, each family style dish came out one at a time as it was ready. Spicy eggplant preceeded bone in spare ribs. To cap it off, a quarter of a goose. I loved every bit of it, especially the goose.

Goose!

Walking back in the rain, we both returned to the bar to use the Internet (more blogging catch up time) before saying goodbye and goodnight.

Day 24: The hostel arranged a set price taxi for me early in the morning, since I had an early flight. Only thing I want to mention, is I noticed when taking off that fake, soldier looking scarecrows holding fake maChine guns lined the runway and scattered about the grass at the airport. Goodbye China!